Monday 18 July 2011

Restless Farewell





Others will enter the gates of the ferry, and cross

         from shore to shore.......
The others that are to follow me, the ties between

me and them

Walt Whitman: Crossing Brooklyn Ferry 


As gentrification continues its scorched-earth, forward march,

I've often found reassurances in the rituals and structures 

around us which remain constant. No, not silly nostalgia for 

some make-believe past, but instead a tangible connection to 

those provincial traits which help define the towns and people 

of Long Island Sound.
There are the baymen of Oyster and Huntington Bays, who 

still work their shellfish beds manually. The wooden 

oysterboats of Norwalk, Stratford, and other shoreline towns. 

Then there are the lighthouses; the 18th and 19th century 

villages; and the farms of the North Fork and the

Connecticut River.

 These are not museum relics, but instead, working 

links to our past which carry on. Stripped of them, we 

inch closer to every other shoreline town which sold its 

soul to postwar Los Angelization long ago.


The Rocky Hill-Glastonbury Ferry is believed to be the oldest

continuously operated ferry in the U.S. Established in 1655, it 

became a state operation in 1915, surviving the Great Depression,

the Floods of 1936, and several ill-conceived highway overpasses

in the 1950's and '60's. 

Just a barge pushed by a tugboat, she is highly functional, but never  

glamorous. Sadly, she met her fate with the budget-cuts this week. 


About 25 miles south of here is the Chester-Hadlyme Ferry. She is 

considered to be the second oldest continuously operated ferry in 

the U.S.. Linking a prettier, more affluent stretch, with museums

and parks overlooking the river, this boat is the more popular of 

the two. Somewhat famous, she is an appealing September/October 

fall foliage excursion, and provides an important transportation 

link along this 16 mile bridge-less stretch between Saybrook and 

East Haddam.



But pedigrees, logistics, and big-pictures don't carry much 

weight in Hartford. The Chester-Hadlyme Ferry has been 

axed along with her older sister to the north. There has been 

a lot of talk about how neither of these boats make money, 

but that argument is selective, penny-wise, and pound foolish. 

No form of transportation makes money without public subsidies. 

Highways, airports, shipping terminals, etc, all lose money 

without government assistance. 


Both ferries are scheduled to close on August 25.
I've thought about taking one final boat ride, but 

what good would it do? Maybe, instead, I'll go find 

some franchise restaurant along the CT Turnpike 

or Long Island Expressway which serves generic 

jalapeno poppers, hot-pockets, fish-a-ma-jig 

sandwiches, and booze.

I'll sit in one of those formica cubicles, partitioned 

by the glazed glass ovals depicting lighthouses, 

oystermen, church steeples, ferry boats, and 

everything  else we chose to abandon.




Chester-Hadlyme Ferry

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