Beached Sailboat

Beached Sailboat; Early Street, City Island

The Summer House At City Island Yacht Club

Much of the destruction from Tropical Storm Irene has been well documented this week, but some damage  has gone largely unreported. The pier at the City Island Yacht Club is one such example.

Extending out over the waters of this century-old club, the pier, or Summer House, was more than just a launch-dock for boat owners; it served as a focal point for socializing too. On hot summer evenings, the benches here were a popular spot to relax while enjoying the breezes off of Eastchester Bay. The racing team from Columbia University kept their sailboats here, as well.

Back in my City Island days, I spent many evenings on this dock, gazing out at the mooring field with the East River bridges and Manhattan skyline twinkling in the distance. Good times!    

 Fortunately, plans for rebuilding are already underway.

City Island Yacht Club

City Island Sailing: More Photos

Map

                                             

Bon Voyage Empire State

Maritime education is not something generally associated with Long Island Sound, until you actually take the time to think about it. There is the U.S. Coast Guard Academy in New London; the U.S. Merchant Marine Academy at Kings Point; and SUNY Maritime College at Throgs Neck. Those colleges, combined with the oceanography programs at SUNY Stony Brook and UCONN Avery Point make the Sound one big nautical classroom. 

While students at more conventional schools are presently thinking about final exams and summer vacation, students here are instead preparing for a semester-at-sea. Hands-on experience, outside the classroom, aboard a ship.

Empire State VI, a converted 565 foot bulk cargo freighter, serves as the training ship for SUNY Maritime College. She and her crew depart this morning for the Mediterranean. Bon voyage...see you in September!

SUNY Maritime College

Wikipedia: TS Empire State

New London Day: USCGC Eagle Departs for Europe

Kings Point Waterfront: Summerwind in DC

YouTube: Departure of Empire State

Map

The Riptide Is Ready

Tomorrow marks the opening day for many party fishing boats on Long Island Sound. While some boats head south for the winter, or fish offshore for cod on a limited schedule, the majority of them close down from December through March.

The Riptide, based out of City Island in the Bronx, will be making daily trips for blackfish (tautog), starting Friday. When I stopped by Jorgensen's Landing two weeks ago, the captain and crew were getting her ready for another season of fishing on the Sound.



Riptide III: website

New York: Saltwater Fishing Regulations

Connecticut: Saltwater Fishing Regulations

Soundbounder: Directory of Party Boats Located on Long Island Sound

 

Orchard Beach Sand Reclamation

There has been a lot of work taking place this winter at Orchard Beach in the Bronx. The NYC Parks Department has partnered with the U.S. Corps of Engineers to replace lost sand and combat further beach erosion along this 1.1 mile city beach. Officially known as the Orchard Beach Shoreline Protection Project, it is the first time sand has been replenished here since 1964.

Like many of Long Island Sound's larger parks, the beach here is not natural. Built in the 1930's, sand was brought in from Sandy Hook, N.J. and Rockaway Beach, N.Y. to create this crescent shaped city beach. Over time, the sand has eroded, exposing the more natural, rocky shoreline below.

Earlier this month, the City Of New York released a comprehensive waterfront plan entitled Vision 2020. According to the report, the goal establishes a set of actions for

"realizing our waterfront and waterways as a world-class destination, a globally competitive port, and a rich and vital natural resource that draws all New Yorkers to its edge and onto the water.

The Action Agenda includes 130 specific, high-priority projects that demonstrate the City�s commitment to investing in the transformation of the waterfront."

This sand reclamation project at Orchard Beach is one of the projects listed in the report.

So far, so good!

Waterfront Action Agenda: Vision 2020

NYC Parks Dept: Orchard Beach Shoreline Protection Project

Soundbounder: Extremes IV

Soundbounder: Pelham Bay Park

Soundbounder: Orchard Beach Lagoon

Sunrise At Orchard Beach

Triborough Bridge 1961

Life Magazine Archives: George Silk, Photographer

Soundbounder: NY Boat Show 1961, 1972

1961 New York Boat Show

"You should have seen the Atlantic Ocean in those days."*

There are several funny lines by Burt Lancaster's character in the 1979 movie Atlantic City. As a longtime resident of the declining resort town, he first appears to be someone who remembers the town's glory days. As the movie progresses, you start to realize he is someone who is hopelessly nostalgic about a past that never truly existed. Not only were the organized crime rackets better back in his day, the ocean was better too. Pursuing a much younger Susan Sarandon, it becomes clear what he misses most about the past is his youth.

I don't think I am blinded by nostalgia however when I describe the New York National Boat Show in the 1960's and '70's. Life Magazine covered it; the Tonight Show stopped by; and Jackie O' brought John-John too. It was like Super Bowl Sunday.... a January ritual....a mid winter classic.

You should have seen the boat show back then.

We would arrive on a Friday night; check out the spanking new boats; mingle with summer friends; gaze in awe at the swanky new gear; and leave with stuffed shopping bags full of brochures and giveaways.  Afterwards, we would eat at Lima's Fish-A-Teria (any fish you wish). My dad would have the fried fish special with a Lowenbrau; I had linguine with red clam sauce and a Freddie Bartholomew. My dopey older brother would ask for beef burgundy, in white wine, without the beef. It was a cosmopolitan and nautical, slapstick nirvana.

Four decades have done nothing to diminish those midtown-Manhattan, Polaroid days. Yes, the mostly mythical Mad Men era of girdles and scotch gave way to a more gritty and declining New York in the early 1970's. Films such as Serpico, The French Connection, and Midnight Cowboy show a city on its last legs, far removed from Breakfast At Tiffany's and An Affair To Remember. New York no longer had God (or Gerald Ford) on its side.

The New York National Boat Show however, was Burt Bacharach in a turtleneck, and Sterling Hayden smoking a pipe; with Natalie Wood-dressed girls inviting us aboard. Created in 1905, it was held in such long lost locales as the second Madison Square Garden, Grand Central Palace, Kingsbridge Armory, and the New York Coliseum. It is the Coliseum (1958-1986) years where it reached its highest fame. It is also the years I remember best.

Like baseball's All Star Game, the show began to lose its cache sometime in the 1980's. And also like the All Star Game, it was for a multitude of reasons: 

1. the autumn in-water shows are now larger.


2. potential customers today don't need to wait for a product to appear at a show in order to view it.


3. many boats today are not transportable by land due to their height and width.


4. there are cheaper ways for companies to showcase their wares.

The photos above are from the Life Magazine/Google Archives circa 1961.  I am not sure, but it looks like they are delivering a Stephens Cabin Cruiser to the big show; maybe a 35-36 footer. Rolling through the streets of Manhattan......I sound like an old coot, don't I?

You should have seen the teamsters in those days.

The New York Boat Show is underway at the Jacob Javits Center, January 19th-23rd. Though only a shell of its former self, it is still a fun way to spend a winter afternoon. Sadly, Lima's Fish-A -Teria is long gone; so are the Freddy Bartholomews.

NY Boat Show

Google/Life Archives: 1961 Boat Show Delivery

Soundbounder: Triborough Bridge 1961

Video: 1964 Boat Show Newsreel

Video: 1963 Boat Show Newsreel

YouTube: 1970's Lowenbrau Commercial (Merv, you're a genius)

YouTube: Burt Lancaster, Atlantic City (quote is at 1:15)

Extremes IV

Just three months separate these photos of an unnamed millpond located on the backside of Orchard Beach in the Bronx. With a late fall foliage this year, there were many shoreline areas of  the Sound holding onto their summer green well into October. Much like the tides, change came gradually at first, but then very fast. In a matter of weeks, we went from summer-like days to the starkness of winter: barren trees, dying grass, then snow, then ice. In this same short span, I went from living aboard a boat to trudging through fields of snow. So long deck shoes; hello duck boots.

NYC Parks: Orchard Beach

10,000 Birds: Dipping On Owls At Pelham Bay Park

photos: (top to bottom)

mid October

late November

late December

early January

Clearwater Hauled In Norwalk

While the sloop Clearwater spends most of her time on the Hudson River, she occasionally ventures east of Hell Gate into the waters of Long Island Sound. Making an appearance at random waterfront festivals, this vanguard of waterway restoration has from time to time, brought her message to the shores of Connecticut and Long Island.

With an overall length of 106' and a mast height of 108', she is modeled after the 18th and 19th century Dutch ships that worked the waters of New York Harbor and the Hudson River. The brainchild of Pete and Toshi Seeger, the Clearwater was launched in 1969 with the intent to bring awareness and appreciation to the Hudson's beauty, heritage, and frailty. According to their website, the message was always simple yet powerful:

"To the people who see her broad sails from the shore, the message is a poignant reminder of the potential beauty and wealth of our region�s much-abused and neglected waterways."

Clearwater's primary focus has always been the Hudson, but her influence has been far reaching. The Quinnipiac, Save The Sound, Oyster Bay Waterfront Center, and numerous other organizations along the Sound are following in the wake of The Great Hudson River Revival.

When I read Monday that she was hauled for some short-term hull maintenance, I made a quick visit to Norwalk Cove Marina to get a closer view.  Under threatening skies, it appeared the work was nearly finished and she was awaiting to be splashed once again. Never one to sit idle for too long, she was berthed at the 79th Street Boat Basin by Tuesday evening.

Clearwater Website

New York Times: A Sloop Named Clearwater

Vessels Of The Hudson

Maritime Systems: Clearwater Location

Tugster: Clearwater Related Posts

YouTube: Making History Again

Pegasus Visits Mystic

The only thing I love more than an old sailing ship is an old tug. So when the tugboat Pegasus visited Mystic Seaport this Columbus Day weekend, I made sure to stop by. Built in 1907 for the Standard Oil Company of New Jersey, she was known as a "battleship tug" because of her size and power. When purchased by McAllistar in 1953, she was converted from steam to diesel power, and served the ports of Boston, New York, and Norfolk. She retired in 1997 after a 90 year career, and is now being restored by the Pegasus Preservation Project.

When I arrived, Captain Pamela Hepburn and her crew were just finishing up their third and final day of providing tours aboard the Pegasus. This may sound like easy work, but it can also be demanding. The sunny weather brought large crowds to the Seaport this holiday weekend, and standing for 9 hours in an engine room answering the same questions repeatedly is tiring work. Congratulations to the volunteer crew for a job well done.

As luck would have it, I was invited to join them for some food and grog at a nearby restaurant. Though tired, the crew was great company, and I enjoyed having the opportunity to meet them and share a few laughs. There was a wealth of maritime knowledge sitting at that table, and I promised to keep in touch as I said goodbye and wished them well on their trip back to New York Harbor the following morning.

Tug Pegasus Preservation Project

Tugster: Mystic Weekend

Tugster: A New York Harbor Waterblog

Mystic Seaport

Josh Piver Memorial

Play music, walk on the beach. I won't be far from reach.

There are a large number of memorials honoring the September 11th victims in the shoreline towns bordering Long Island Sound. East of New Haven and Port Jefferson however, they become less frequent as the grip of Manhattan begins to loosen, and the loss from that day is more indirect.

An exception to this is the Josh Piver Memorial located at Stonington Point. It is a simple, stone bench with a few words inscribed, quietly looking out on the water towards Sandy Point and Little Narragansett Bay.

I did not know this young man, but I often feel as if I did. We had many things in common: like me, he loved the water; he spent his summer vacations working in boatyards; and he attended the University Of Vermont.

Josh was working in One World Trade Center (north tower) on the morning of September 11, 2001. He was just 24 years old.

The Josh Piver Foundation was established by his friends to honor his memory.

Josh Piver Foundation

One Mom's Lifesong: Honoring Josh Piver

Cantor Fitzgerald Tribute: Joshua Piver

New York Times: Portraits In Grief

UVM Alumni Tribute

Soundbounder: Looking West (September 11, 2009)

New York Times: September 11, Yet Nothing Stops The Tides

CT Coastal Access Guide: Stonington Point

City Island: A Bronx Boat Building Village

When I was spending a lot of time in City Island, there were a handful of people who would often  compare this Bronx neighborhood to Cape Cod or some other New England coastal region. Immediately, my internal BS Detector would start flashing Code Red. It was obvious to me that the person stating this had never been to Chatham, Stonington, or whatever town they were comparing it to. Rather than start a drunken argument, I would usually try to make nice-nice by continuing to mind my own business and eat my halibut. 

The release of the movie City Island, has my detector flashing once again. I have not seen the film, but my Google Alert box is flooded with reviews that describe the island as a "quaint New England fishing village". Some even give the impression that it is located in the middle of Long Island Sound, with a fishing armada supplying the seafood restaurants  dotting it's shore.

Like most of Long Island Sound, City Island had it's share of oystering and lobstering. It's real claim to fame however, was shipbuilding. Numerous yards lined the eastern side of the island that built, outfitted, and repaired large yachts. Eight of these boats went on to win the  America's Cup. That is an impressive legacy, and the City Island Nautical Museum does an excellent job at presenting it. 

As for the New England comparisons? The island has some narrow streets with a few colonial and victorian homes, but so do lots of towns. Through careful editing, filmmakers can portray it as a much quainter place than it is. I think Tom Andersen put it best when he said:  "It doesn't (look like a little fishing village). It looks like the Bronx waterfront".

I remember how disappointed I was when I first saw the movie, Mystic Pizza. Sure, it was fun checking out a young Julia Roberts, and seeing parts of Mystic on the big screen. But I was really turned-off by how the film portrayed the town as some ethnic theme park, where the girls married young; the boys all went fishing; and everybody ate Lobstah.  Hardly very accurate.

Eventually I will make it to the theatre to see City Island. But if Andy Garcia's neighbor is a tuna fisherman, and the house has a widow's walk, I'm heading for the exit.

City Island Nautical Museum: (highly recommended museum)

Google Search: City Island Quaint New England Fishing Village

This Sphere: It Might Possibly Be Worth Going To City Island

Historic Pelham: Early Years Of City Island

New York Times: Movies Filmed On City Island

SOUNDBOUNDER: Pelham Cemetery, City Island

Map

photo credit: City Island Nautical Museum

USCGC Morro Bay

While visiting the USCGC Eagle in New London last September, I was able to get a close-up view of the USCGC Morro Bay, as well.  Built in 1981, she is a 140 foot tug with a beam of 37 feet. The ship made headlines in 2008 when she was involved in a collision with one of the Block Island ferries.  Her duties include enforcement and coastal patrols, but her primary function is icebreaking during the winter months.

This month, the Morro Bay is busy keeping the channels on the Hudson River open for navigation.



Below is an excellent photo gallery and video of the Morro Bay working on the Hudson. Unfortunately, to view them you need to be an Optimum Online or Newsday subscriber.



USCG: 140 Foot Bay-Class Cutters

Newsday: Photo Gallery

Newsday: Video

YouTube: Morro Bay Icebreaking

YouTube: Morro Bay Icebreaking On Kennebec River, Maine



photo credit: Newsday (bottom)

Orchard Beach Lagoon

Directly across the parking lot from Orchard Beach is a protected body of water known as The Lagoon. While not a true lagoon, these waters became nearly landlocked with the creation of Orchard Beach in the 1930's. Once known as LeRoy's Bay, the lagoon served as the site for the 1964 Olympic Rowing Trials.

Along the southwestern shore is a neglected judging stand that resembles a relic from the 1964 Worlds Fair (Barbie Townhouse meets Soviet housing project). For years, I had thought this was one of those fake buildings that firemen use for training. A chain-link fence along with some rare common sense stopped me from entering.

The lagoon itself is attractive, and it is very easy to forget that you are in the Bronx. The surrounding land is all part of the massive Pelham Bay Park, maintained by the City of New York. It is still common to see rowing teams from Fordham, Sarah Lawrence, and Iona gliding across the water, with the only audience now being some egrets and herons.

*

Andrew Cusack: Rowing In Pelham Bay Park (photos from tower)

Iolani: 1964 Olympic Rowing Trials

Soundbounder: Shore Park In Pelham Manor

Yale Bulldogs: Connell Cup

Map

Looking West

During late summer and autumn when the air is clear, the skyline of Manhattan looms large on Long Island Sound's western horizon. The silhouette, depending on the visibility, can be seen as far away as Westport, CT, perhaps even further. For the past eight years, it has been difficult to take in this view without thinking about September 11, 2001. The skyline of Manhattan still looks strange to me with the two counterweights missing from it's southern end.

*********************************************************

Sherwood Island State Park in Westport is the site of the Connecticut 9/11 Living Memorial. The site was chosen because on clear days, Manhattan is visible. It is a location where people gathered on September 11 to see smoke rising from the skyline. The park then served as a service area for relief efforts following the attacks.

Sherwood Island September 11 Memorial
Sherwood Island 365
New York Times: September 11, Yet Nothing Stops The Tides
Westport Now: Providing Comfort
Long Island Daily Photo: Remembering

Bicentennial Veterans Park

This is a small, city park located just east of the Throgs Neck Expressway in the Bronx. The park does not really have a lot to offer, but it does provide a nice view to the east. The land beyond the moored boats is City Island, while the land in the far distance to the right is Kings Point, Long Island. The neighborhood of Edgewater can be seen in the top photo, on the right side. Bicentennial Veterans Park is sometimes referred to as Weirs Creek.

NYC Parks

Recreation Parks.net: Map

Bridge And Tunnel Club: Bicentennial Veterans Park (photos)

Fort Totten

Fort Totten.org
NYC Parks: Fort Totten
Flickr: Photos
Map

New York Harbor Waterbloggers

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy"

Benjamin Franklin

"Ah that's just drunk talk. Sweet beautiful drunk talk"

Homer Simpson

My memory is a bit foggy. But yesterday afternoon a group of New York Harbor waterbloggers got together at Pier 66 on the west side of Manhattan. In attendance were Barbara from Going Coastal; Karen and Brian from Movable Bridge; Harry and Nancy from Hudson Kayaker; Christina from Bowsprite; and Will from Tugster. Let's just say that I am a little dehydrated this morning.
It was a fun afternoon (and evening) and it was great to actually meet and speak with some of my fellow waterbloggers. With the skyline of Manhattan at our backs, we drank beer and watched the activity on the river. Pier 66 is a fantastic piece of waterfront property that includes the Frying Pan lightship and the John J Harvey fireboat. Unfortunately, I learned that my photography skills deteriorate sharply with each pint of beer consumed.
The conversation for the first few hours focused mostly on blogging, but it eventually devolved into lowbrow discussions about tattoos, scars, and body hair. Christina from Bowsprite is a riot! I could get in a lot of trouble hanging out with her. I have no idea what time it was when we all left. It was that type of party.

YouTube: Show Me The Way To Go Home