Wednesday, 31 October 2007

Halloween Fun

Just like back in 1991, it is snowing today. I should say that it is just snow squalls, so we aren't in for the 32 inches that we got back then. And so far, it is more like styrofoam pellets than real flakes. That's okay, as it is still a little early for us to have snow on the ground. We got most of the firewood stacked yesterday, so I can feel a little happier about seeing snow in the air.

Yesterday was one of those beautiful fall days that you want to last for several more hours. Paul, Addie and I worked hard on the stacks, while Greg was out mowing ski trails with a tractor. The bugs even made a short appearance, in the form of black flies and a couple of mosquitoes. We finished up chores at a neighbor's cabin, we put away lawn chairs, and we stowed some canoes and such. Greg and I finished out the day as dusk was falling by going on a date to the dump. Such excitement around here.

Actually, the real excitement is today, for it is Halloween, even in the woods. Addie has been very busy designing and sewing her costume, and I pitched in a bit to help. I recalled several years of last minute sewing on October 30, so that costumes would be ready for school parties the next day. Those nights were so stressed, I am happy not to go back to that. One year, all three kids wore variations on the same theme: Rodents Of Unusual Size, or ROUS 's from the movie Princess Bride. With fake fur, I was able to fashion three different colored rat costumes. We would go trick or treating to a handful of neighbors' cabins, and the kids would come home with a bag of candy so full, you would have thought we hit three suburban neighborhoods.

We start the Halloween celebrating a bit early, by hosting a lasagna dinner/Halloween gathering on the last weekend of October. That is when the Minnesota Rovers are up to do their annual trail maintenance on the Border Route Trail. Here are a couple photos of who came this year.

Not everyone dresses up, but we all have a good time.

Happy Halloween to everyone--be safe out there, and don't eat too much candy.

Monday, 29 October 2007

Greg's views on the current status of the Lake

To learn more about the level of the lake in comparison to other years, we turn to our guest blogger, Greg.

Gunflint Lake is not quite at an all-time high level. In the last 10 years, I have seen it higher twice: In the spring following the great winter of '95-'96, it was two inches higher. And the spring of '01 (after a winter of ample snowfall and torrential March downpours) topped it by a whopping six inches.

Likely, there were other higher springtime levels, but these would have been before I was paying close attention, or before I was born. And note that those two times already mentioned were both in the spring. That is when the lake is supposed to be high. But this is fall, and as far as I know, these levels are unprecedented.

In the fall of 1978, the lake came up quite a lot, and roads washed out all over Northeastern Minnesota. Back then, I wasn't in to marking the water levels on fixed objects, like certain rocks or our concrete boat ramp. But I am now, and I can say with the conviction of a scientist that Gunflint Lake is real full. In fact, it has risen 55.75 inches since December 2006, which was the lowest I've seen it.

To put that into perspective, if Gramma Peggy were alive today and standing on one of the rocks we take our measurements from, the water would be over her head. By contrast, last December, the bottoms of the feet of her bunny suit would've stayed dry.

Typically, Gunflint Lake will rise 24 to 30 inches between fall-low and spring-high. If that happens by next spring, it will create some real problems. Waves are already lapping at some cabins' footings during high winds. Beaches are underwater, so it is a struggle to find places to put boats. Come next spring, on a very rough day when the waves reach 12 to 18 inches from crest to trough, there will be serious erosion of the duff layer along the shore. Some trees will topple. The lake will be full of flotsam, redistributing debris according to the whims of the wind direction. And it will be a sight to see; a once-in-a-generation event, or perhaps even a lifetime.

Friday, 26 October 2007

Halloween at Arlington Court

We became members of the National Trust back in July but haven't actually been anywhere to use our membership - til now; partly because of the lousy summer we had and partly because there really is only one National Trust place to visit in North Devon. So today we christened our card and went to Arlington Court for their Halloween Fun Day.

There was a bat trail around the grounds. We found a few bat cards full of information but the novelty soon wore off. They were more interested in the craft room where they sat for ages making bat masks. We then went off for a quick run around the grounds, managed to walk quietly around the inside of the house, and then came home again.

Tonight there is a Halloween Walk where the staff dress up and act out a scary story. Walkers follow them around the grounds through various scary tunnels and across dark muddy fields where witches and ghouls wait to jump out at you. We've done this twice in previous years so tonight we'll stay wrapped up in the warm. I can recommend giving it a go though - if your children are brave and you have a good sense of humour!

Thursday, 25 October 2007

Fall days in Morris

Finally, a few nice--even warm--days have arrived this fall. But instead of taking advantage of it and working on the woodpile, we are in western Minnesota visiting the University of
Minnesota at Morris. Paul is considering this college, and so we packed the car and headed west for a different reason than most of our trips.

The prairie is always wonderful to see. What a contrast to our northern forest. Minnesota has so many different "faces" to it. Personally, I wouldn't mind spending a few years in an area like this. After the campus tour today, I was ready to sign up. Greg asked me what I would study, and I said "Art." He said that he would study writing and art. But we've both been to college already, so we'll encourage Paul to go, instead. We brought Addie along, as she isn't too many years away from this decision herself.

The tour of the campus was informative and enjoyable. We followed our tour guide, Ali, from one building to the next, learning about many of the educational opportunities that Morris offers, and getting a glimpse into the life of a student on campus today. Paul is pretty quiet about sharing his opinions, but here are a few of the things that I liked:
---The small campus is laid out well, is easy to navigate, and is beautifully landscaped.
---The people are very friendly--from the admissions folks, to Ali, to the English professor who
met with us, and the polite student who sat across from us in the cafeteria. I got a great
feeling that everyone cares.
---The focus on the student was good to see and hear. We've long believed that all students do
not learn alike. I get the strong sense that the faculty and staff at Morris understand
that and are willing to support a student in finding what works best for him or her.

If Paul is accepted and decides to go to Morris, we'll be happy with his decision. This seems like a good match for him. It's about an eight hour drive away, so he won't be able to come home on weekends for us to put him to work. He's probably happy about that.

It's been awhile since I mentioned Robert and what he is doing. He is in Fairbanks, Alaska, and currently is enrolled in a diesel mechanics program. I'm so happy to say that he is enjoying it. This is probably the first time in his life tht he actually likes school. I remember when he started kindergarten so many years ago. For the first two weeks, he would board the bus happily in the morning, and then tell about his day when he came home. But then one day, he told us that he was done, and he wasn't going again. He'd experienced school, and now it was time to move on to something else. You can just imagine how displeased he was to learn that he indeed was going back the next day, and for several days (and years) to come.

At that time, I had no idea that he, Paul and Addie would all come home to learn, after completing fifth grade. Robert used to enjoy telling his former classmates that he had dropped out. The homeschool years were not always an easy path, but like child-raising itself, it has been most rewarding. One of the side benefits for me has been all of the time we've spent together as a family. When Robert left home last year, I felt like he was ready to go. I can see that now in Paul. Like his brother, he's ready to experience life out of the woods. We knew this day would come, we just hoped that it wouldn't arrive so quickly.

Torrington 1646

I dragged the children out of bed this morning. It was cold and grey and the middle of their half term but they were fine with that: even the teenager, given the option of staying behind, decided she'd come out for a visit with the rest of the family. We travelled 11 miles through the country lanes to Torrington, a small market town perched on top of some very steep hills, and there we visited the Torrington 1646 exhibition.

Centred around the the Civil War battle that took place there that year it is essentially an interactive experience that takes you through what it would be like to live during those times. The experience lasts two hours and the staff, all dressed in costumes and acting in role, take you through the exhibits on a guided tour. This was a bit worrying at first as I am generally used to allowing my children to wander at will but they were very good and the staff are obviously experienced in keeping young children entertained.

Our tour started in the costume room where a gentleman and his son were dressed in armour and then myself and a young girl from another family were dressed as mistresses of the day, much to the amusement of my middle daughter who thought it particularly funny that I had to wear a bumrole to make my backside look bigger (like it needed any help!). Then we were taken through the streets of Torrington at night while the battle took place. We visited the Barber surgeon who spared no gorey detail while telling us about his work. There is a Physic garden, but it was too cold to be shown around that so the lady brought her plants indoors to us. And finally we were taken into the garden for a weapons display. Several hapless volunteers were taken through their paces as pikemen, then we learn all about muskets.

The cafe was our next port of call for a hot chocolate to warm us all up. It was a very interesting and very entertaining visit, particularly useful if you are learning about the Civil War at school as my second daughter is. Family entrance is �21 for 2 adults and up to 3 children. My children learnt a lot and have decided they definately don't wish they were alive 35o years ago, far too many things involved urine!

Wednesday, 24 October 2007

Bright colors, blue water

Surprisingly, there is still a fair amount of fall color to be seen in our world. The leaves have mostly fallen from the trees, although a few tamaracks are still sporting bright gold needles. The underbrush is where I am seeing the most vivid hues. We still have not had a hard freeze. We've come close, with frost at the end of September that painted the rooftops and windshields white. Since then, the temperatures have been mostly mild, with temps in the forties, and even the high fifties on the rainiest days.

We were able to finally take a boat ride recently, and so I snapped a few pictures on the Canadian side of the lake.
We brought our mugs of tea along, and enjoyed them while exploring on the railroad grade.
Addie, with her young, sharp eyes, spotted this little bird's nest on the ground. I like how it is nestled in the foliage, near a burned stick. The symbolism of new life next to the destruction is wonderful.

Tuesday, 23 October 2007

How much has the lake come up?

That's a good question. Since it began raining in early September, we have received over 25 inches. Gunflint Lake has benefitted greatly from this, not only from the rain actually falling into it, but also from the run-off. I asked Greg for some observations on the lake level, and here is what he shared with me.

Offhand, it probably came up 36 inches. Last November, it was a foot lower than it was this year before it started raining.(That would be around September 6th.) Without actually measuring it, he estimates that it is 47 and 3/4 inches higher than it was last year in December. That's a lot of water!

I prefer to see landmarks that help me understand what has happened. To that end, here are some photos to share.

This photo of our boat landing was taken on October 18th.

This was taken just four days later.

I took this one today. These are the two trees on our beach (or what remains of it) that had fallen down after the blowdown storm in 1999. With the high water and waves, these two trees are once again under stress. We are hoping that the water doesn't take away all of the soil/sand that surrounds the roots.

This one is a bit dark, but it is of the lake today, when the wind came from the northwest. Greg is just to the right of this pool. He is out at Cedar Point, looking west. Where the waves seem to be crashing is a line of rocks that normally delineates the top of the beach. Water has spilled over that. This is true in many places. We are seeing standing water, islands of trees, rocks on the shoreline completely submerged. We had more rain today, though not as much. The next few days are supposed to be sunny, so that should give the shoreline a reprieve.

Thursday, 18 October 2007

Wolf on the Trail

A month ago, Greg and I went to a wedding in Spooner, Wisconsin. It had been a good stretch of weather, so we decided to go just for the day. We knew that it meant that we would be driving home in the dark, but we felt it would go just fine.

The day stayed beautiful, the wedding was lovely, and by about seven p.m., we were ready to drive back. This timing put us on the trail around eleven. That is generally a very quiet time, with little or no traffic joining us.

As we approached the mid point of the trail, near Swamper Lake, we saw an animal up ahead on the side of the road. I slowed down, in case it decided to come into the road in front of the car. As we got closer, we could see that it was a wolf.

Greg told me to slow way down, and he got out the camera. The wolf cast occasional glances our way, especially after I rolled the window down and it could hear us whispering. As I leaned closer to the steering wheel, Greg attempted to take some photos. Instead of leaving the road with all of this happening so near, the wolf just continued trotting on. Greg took several photos while I slowly drove. We were impressed to hear the click-click-click of the wolf�s toenails on the pavement.

You might think that this story ends with the wolf leaving the road and disappearing into the woods. That was the ending I expected. Instead, I noticed in my rearview mirror the lights of an approaching vehicle. I told Greg that I was going to have to speed up, because a car was coming. I added, �Maybe the wolf will be their friend now.� Sure enough, as I accelerated, I could see in my mirror that the next car was decelerating, and then stopping for their chance to see this marvelous animal.

Wednesday, 17 October 2007

Seasonal Chores

So much of fall is really about winter--specifically, getting ready for winter. For those who have a garden, fall harvest is the time to put up the produce for the long winter season. I confess that I did not have much of a garden this year, since spring planting time was so disrupted. I did manage to get a few beans and some chard in the ground by late June, so we have enjoyed some homegrown goodies. Thank heavens for the CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) to which we belong. Three wonderful women near Grand Marais farm all summer and fill a cooler each week with the fruits and veggies of their labor. Already I am looking forward to next summer, for the CSA coolers and for the opportunity to again test out my own green thumb. Moses and Jethro are consistently doing their part to provide dirt for more raised garden beds.

I�ve probably mentioned it here before, but one of the most important fall chores is to process the firewood. You may have noticed our huge stack of logs in the backyard across from the gravel pit. Having a woodpile like that is like having money in the bank. It will keep us warm in the months to come, once we have it bucked up into stove-length pieces, split, and stacked to dry. Ever since the kids were little, they have been required to help in some way during firewood season. As they get older, they have been able to help even more. Paul and Addie are both proficient at running the splitter, and they are excellent stackers. There is a bit of an art to making a good wood stack, so that it is neat, spaced for good air circulation, and most importantly, so that it won�t fall down. To do this, one must build �corners� at the end of the stacks. We log-cabin the wood on each end of the stack, so that it is a little more stable. I used to dislike making corners, but have since come to enjoy the challenge. I�ve also learned that if I split the wood properly, I have good corner pieces to work with. Even the most rote and mundane chores can have their interesting moments.

Another way we are preparing for winter is by having some new furnaces installed. Birch cabin is getting two small heaters, one in each bedroom. The big old gas furnace finally is being replaced. This should help make even the coldest nights cozier. In Diamond Willow cabin, the furnace in the master bedroom will be given the old heave-ho in favor of a new and efficient one. It is good to know that we can head into the next season a little better prepared to handle it.

Speaking of the next season, we are all hopeful that it will be a snowy one. It feels like we are overdue for a really good winter. Greg has a new truck and is ordering a snowplow for it soon. He is excited as he loves to go plowing. Already we have had flurries, the first time having been in mid-September. We saw some snow again last week, so that sends us scurrying out to work a little harder on the woodpile. It is much easier to get that job finished before the snow flies. So why am I not out there today? You guessed it---it�s raining again.

Tuesday, 16 October 2007

So Many Good Things, and Adventures on the High Seas

It was quite a summer...and now the calendar tells me that it is autumn. The usual lament---Where did the time go?--- applies here. I�ve had some time in recent days to catch my breath, and to begin to think about all of the things I want to share. I apologize for going on a hiatus for so many days. It�s been a busy stretch, both in real life and in my head! I�m back and ready to write.

The events of May definitely shaped the days of the summertime, in ways I anticipated, but also in unexpected gifts and experiences. So many good things have come our way, and the gratitude we feel is immense. Large things, such as generosity beyond our dreams, down to small things like skeins of yarn gifted to me---it�s been overwhelming, breath-taking, and healing. The thoughts are coming to me in bits and pieces, but my plan is to write some of the shorter anecdotes here, and on the Planet Heston�s page, I will post the larger stories. Thanks for bearing with me as I get my act together and do this.

From spring drought to fall rain, forest fire to near flooding, it has been a season or two of extremes. Recently, we heard that the Gunflint Trail received 22 inches of rain in five weeks from early September into October. Boy are we wet!

The old adage, be careful what you wish for, really hasn�t applied here. Despite the challenges the water has brought, nearly everyone I�ve encountered is cheerful about it. We�ve seen what happens when we don�t get the necessary rain. I was in the lake more in September than all summer long. It certainly was not because I am a fan of cold water. All that rain falling into the lake brings the water up to some extent. But then over the next few days, it continues to rise, as the little creeks wash down the hills. At one point, Greg said the lake level had risen by 24 inches. Currently, the water laps at the very top of our cement ramp at the landing. That is normally a sight reserved for spring, right after ice out.

Plenty of adventure comes along with the rain. Just about the time that we think our boats and docks are pulled up high enough, we lose another few inches of beach, and the boats are escaping. Early one morning, Greg informed us that we had to rescue a loose boat of our own, as well as a neighbor�s that was found by fishermen the previous night. I got dropped off in our wandering boat, armed with a bucket to bail it. Greg and Paul went to gather equipment, and to wrestle with a sailboat that was on our beach. Addie was on shore to help them. I emptied the boat of as much water as I could, and then paddled it in to shore. My! What a fine morning to feel like a pirate---hopping aboard wayward vessels. Once things were secure on our beach, we headed down the lake to look for our friends� boat.

Our first stop was the dock and boat lift. The decking was askew, thanks to high water and winds. The boat lift was in some very deep water, and wasn�t to be budged with out getting in to the lake. The slowly-rising water had easily floated the boat right off the ramp. When the fishermen found it, they tied it securely to some trees just to the east of the dock. It was rocking gently, not in immediate danger, so we decided to go home and eat breakfast before trying to move it.

When we got back to Heston�s, Greg drove the boat right up on to our dock. It was sitting so low in the water, it was like a ramp.

There�s something about coming back home in the middle of a many other chores call out, that it is hard to get back to what we were doing. That�s how it was that day. By afternoon, we still hadn�t gotten back down the lake. The waters remained calm, but we knew it was due to change, with northwest winds predicted. Sure enough, by late afternoon, the winds did roll in, and we knew that we had to move that boat. Greg grabbed his chest waders, and I wore my usual �going in the lake in spring/fall� outfit of fleece long johns, rubber duck boots and sweatshirt. What a crazy sight.

This time, we drove to the property, and after walking through the woods on the shoreline, we came to the boat. This is a large boat, not like our small fishing boats. We couldn�t just push it off and walk it back home--not against the waves. Greg went scouting to the east to find an appropriate and safe landing for it. When he returned, he said that we could take it to another neighbors� boat lift. They had already taken their boat out of the water.

Greg got in to the boat as I untied it and then began to push it off the shore. He hollered to me to jump in--no easy task with a big boat like that. Soon enough I managed and we cast off with only two paddles and the wind pushing us down the lake. We hoped that we could paddle it to where it needed to be. By this time, I was really feeling like a pirate, onboard in stormy seas, adrift with plunder! Then, whoops---we hit a small bar. Greg jumped overboard, and I pushed on the bottom with my paddle to help free us. He got back in, and just a short ways more, we reached the dock. Our friend Larry was waiting.
We cast him a rope, and he helped to guide us on to the lift. It took some fiddling, but we eventually got the boat situated and up on the lift. Greg found the proper button to get the bilge pump running. Another boat was rescued and safe.

Larry invited us in for a beer, but we took a rain check, since by then we were a pretty soggy pair. We slogged back to the truck to head home. Along the way, we stopped to check on two more boats belonging to friends. Sure enough, these two boats also needed more attention. One was not to be budged--too much water on board and no easy place to pull it higher. The other one was a bit more manageable. With the aid of a come-along, we pulled it to high ground. It wasn�t going anywhere.

We got home about seven-thirty, just in time to cook a quick dinner, get changed, and then head down the trail. Paul�s band was playing music at Windigo. �Come hell or high water,� we weren�t going to miss that!
P.S. Many thanks to my friends Orv and Alice, and Cindy P. for giving me that gentle nudge to get writing again. Without you, I may have been stalled for even longer!

Thursday, 4 October 2007

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Wednesday, 3 October 2007

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